Dad Hikes: Sam A. Baker State Park

Wet-weather waterfalls splashing down through boulders and a lookout across the St. Francois Mountains await you on the Shut-Ins Trail at Sam A. Baker State Park.

Park store with a restaurant attached. This is where I picked up a copy of a map of the trails of the park.
Park store with a restaurant attached. This is where I picked up a copy of a map of the trails of the park.

History of the Park

Sam A. Baker State Park is one of the oldest parks in Missouri since land acquired for it was in 1926. The park honors former Mo. Gov. Sam Aaron Baker who encouraged the park’s creation in his birth county.

Structures in the park such as the visitor’s center, dining lodge, and cabins were created during the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) era in the 1930s in the craftsman style.

Cabins across from the store.
Cabins across from the store.

What the State Park Offers

You can camp or stay in a cabin here, ride horses, swim, canoe, tube, or even bicycle along the streams as some of the activities here besides hiking. You can mix it up with long hikes as well as short hikes and there is even a connection to the Ozark Trail.

Sign at the start of the .5 mile Shut-Ins Trail.
Sign at the start of the .5 mile Shut-Ins Trail.

Starting the Shut-Ins Trail

My activity today was hiking the 1.5-mile Shut-Ins trail to its end on a bluff that includes an overlook hiking shelter built by the CCC.

The trailhead is located behind the dining lodge, where steps lead down to the floodplain of Big Creek. The shaded trail follows the base of the bottomland forest of sweet gums, sycamores, and cottonwoods.

Trail follows near Big Creek at first.
Trail follows near Big Creek at first.

At the Start

Follow the trail under the highway bridge to a wooden bridge in the woods.

Bridge crossing-- follow the blue arrows for the Shut-ins Trail.
Bridge Crossing– follow the blue arrows for the Shut-Ins Trail.

The bridge crosses a stony brook that has a low bluff near where it intersects with Big Creek.

To the left of the trial is a craggy landscape.
To the left of the trail is a craggy landscape.

Hiking Along the Bottomland

The trail surface is mostly rocky with occasional muddy areas in which you can walk along the well-worn path on the side.

On the left, as you walk there are boulders and high cliffs.

First place you can see wet weather waterfalls on a spur trail.
First place you can see wet weather waterfalls on a spur trail.

Take a short spur trail on your left that leads to massive boulders and gorge like ravine along with wet-weather waterfalls.

Second area where a wet weather waterfall can be seen.
Second area where a wet weather waterfall can be seen.

On your left large boulders pile together going up a gorge. On some days a wet-weather waterfall can be found here, but today it was only a trickle.

Clear Big Creek with high cliffs on the left.
Clear Big Creek with high cliffs on the left.

Down by the River

Most families head to the right down to a swimming hole. I followed this path at first trying to locate the uphill portion of the trail. I even wandered along the bottom of the bluff until it became to steep. Then I decided I must have missed it.

Gnarled roots point the way up.
Gnarled roots point the way up.

Going Up Hill

I headed back and saw a smaller less used trail go up near the boulder gorge. By it is a gnarled dead tree trunk; sort of looking possessed, and on your left and you will see the trail.

I followed the blue arrows up but became lost along the hillside. There were other side trails about and I ended up following one straight up to the lookout above Big Creek Canyon, which was my destination anyway.

CCC rock shelter
CCC rock shelter

At the Top

Here you find a CCC stone hiking shelter that even has a fireplace. The hike up was hard, so I took some time to relax sitting on the cement floor in front of the shelter.

Taking a selfie at the top.
Taking a selfie at the top.

I could take a little longer route back using the MudLick Trail but decided I just wanted to get back on the road. Also, that seemed to go back into the trees more and I liked the walk through the valley with the cliffs above you.

Here I took some photos and admired the view of the hills in the distance. It was nice to be alone on this high precipice. It was not an easy climb, and thought at first it wasn’t worth it but when I got back to my car I decided it was my favorite part of the trail.

Big Lizard

Also, on the way down I saw a brown fence lizard, a big one. He stayed for a moment down the rocks from me. I tried to photograph him, but he was a bit too far and I knew if I went a little closer he would stumble away.

Busy Trail

The trail can be busy since the mile-long section along the valley leads to a large swimming hole. So families walk along here with their kids and possibly swimming tubes to enjoy a day on the river. At the start, there is another swimming area across the water just north of the Highway 143 bridge.

Rocky terrain along parts of the trail.
Rocky terrain along parts of the trail.

Final Thoughts

It would be nice to do this trail when the waterfalls are flowing. If you feel you want a workout and a view then head up to the lookout, it is worth the hike.

Also, as you enter the park, on the opposite side of the river there is a field. When I came and when I left there were older deer along with fawns grazing in the field. Great wildlife viewing at the end of the day here.

Other Trails

Sign for the Mudlick Trail
Sign for the Mudlick Trail

Mudlick Trail – 11-mile loop, 16.75 miles, or a 5.5-mile hike section.

It is a challenging trail and climbs 1,000 feet above Big Creek valley. Check the park brochure for complete information on the different sections. A section of the trail enters Mudlick Hollow, a shut-in with pools and small waterfalls only accessed by this trail. Hikers also pass three stone shelters with outstanding views of the countryside.

Paved Bicycle Trail – 1.5 miles

Bicyclists, hikers, skateboarders, and rollerbladers can us the 1.5-mile paved path from Campground 1 to the park store. The trail follows Big Creek and gives access to campgrounds, visitor center, store, picnic areas, hiking trails, and a dining lodge.

Fire Tower Trail – 2 miles, one-way

Starting just south of the visitor center, the trail heads uphill for two miles on a gravel road, ending at the Mudlick Fire Tower. Mudlick Mountain has an elevation of 1,313 feet. The fire tower is closed to the public.

NOTE: Be sure to stop by the store at the state park to get a more detailed map of the trails.

DETAILS

Drive: Go south on Interstate 55 to exit 174B and merge onto US-67 S and stay in this highway until the exit for Mo-34 taking this highway west until you come to Mo-143 and go north until you see the visitor’s center and shop parking lot where you can enter the trail system.

Hours: Sunrise to sunset with camping possible.

Admission: Free

Address: 5580 MO-143, Patterson, MO 63956

Next Blog: Hiking at Nearby Lon Sanders Canyon With Its Amazing Shut-Ins

Treetop view of the Meramec River at Castlewood State Park.

MORE DAD HIKES AT STATE PARKS

Spending the Day at Castlewood State Park

Cliffside walks along the Meramec River and wading in Kiefer Creek were part of our day at Castlewood State Park.

Hiking Gone Wrong at Cuivre River State Park

My first thought on doing Lone Spring Trail at Cuivre State Park should be renamed “Lost Springs Trail” since I spent some of the time not finding the trail. This was an adventurous hike with a lot of lessons learned.

Onondaga Cave State Park

Swimming in the Meramec River and hiking to an old cave entrance was our “Sunday Funday” as a family at Onondaga Cave State Park.

The cave is closed this year due to the coronavirus, but we took advantage of many other activities in the park.

Horseshoe Lake State Park

Walking among the green stalks of a cornfield and admiring the lakeside flowers were part of our adventure on Walker’s Island at Horseshoe Lake State Park.

Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park

Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park with its huge gray boulders and splashing water slide like rapids is a hiking and swimming destination.

Dad Hikes — Many times I will do these hikes alone to learn the lay of the land before we do it as a family. Feel free to share suggestions for hikes to do. Also, share any questions you might have on the hikes!

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