Willemstad is a Dutch city transported to the Caribbean on the island of Curacao. It has a rainbow color palette of buildings along its bay and lots of history to explore.
The cruise ship was docked here from the morning until the evening so we had plenty of time to check out the island.
Checking Out the Shops
We headed off the cruise ship onto what is called the Mega Cruise Terminal here. The first area we entered was filled with tourist stalls.
One of the souvenirs for the ABC islands is driftwood art and we saw some of this along with the usual T-shirts, trinkets, and magnets that I collect. I usually price souvenirs here and see if the shops further afield in town are better or are more unique.
Down from the port, we walked along a paved path by bars near the rocks that are a breakwater for the cruise ships. Cheap mixed drinks, snacks, and beer can be found here.
Going through the Rif Fort
Next, we entered the Rif Fort through a large rocky archway. The fort was built in the 19th century to protect Curacao from pirates and sits at the entrance to St. Anna Bay. The fort was constructed with five-foot thick walls that are bombproof.
I took a moment to look at the rocks that made up the walls of the fort. Many are coral rocks and are of different sizes, colors, and shapes. I showed the rocks to Andrew and we looked for different ones with different striations.
The inside of the fort has been turned into a shopping area using the walls for parts of stores and restaurants. I guess it is a little sad that it lost its fort look, but I am glad it isn’t sitting empty or was knocked down.
I explored a bit with Andrew going up and downstairs to the top level of the walls for views of Willemstad and the bay.
Crossing the Moving Bridge
We came out of the fort to more stalls and headed to the Queen Emma Bridge. It is a historic pontoon pedestrian bridge that opens laterally for passing ships.
The bridge is 550 feet long and connects the oldest parts of the city. Across the bay here are the postcard-worthy colorful waterfront houses.
I read the bridge was originally constructed in 1888 and required a toll to cross unless you wore no shoes. What happened then the rich took off their shoes to cross the bridge for free and the poor wore shoes so as to not be seen as poor, an interesting statement on human nature.
The bridge actually floats in the water, so when you walk on it, there is some movement since it is on pontoons. It has been called affectionately by the locals “the Swinging Old Lady” since it swings open like a giant gate several times a day to let through large boats including cruise ships pass through from the ocean to St. Anna Bay. Watching it open and close was a unique experience, which can be done from the bank or even amazingly enough while you are standing on the bridge.
Oldest Synagogue in the Western Hemisphere
Mikve Israel- Emanuel Synagogue and museum was our destination after we crossed the bridge and walked through the cobblestone streets of Willemstad.
The outside of the building is arched at the top and is yellow in color and you enter through a courtyard. It is the oldest active Jewish congregation in the Western hemisphere and was started in 1651 and the synagogue was built in 1732.
Amazingly the floor is sand. It is modeled after the encampment, which the Jewish forefathers established in the Sinai desert during their forty years of wandering from Egypt to the Promised Land.
The second reason for the sand floor relates to the origins of the congregants whose ancestors were, for the most part, “secret” Jews or “Conversos;” living in Spain or Portugal during the Inquisition until their emigration to the Netherlands and other countries. After settling in Curacao, they remembered how their forefathers put sand on the floor of the secret rooms in which they worshipped to help muffle the sounds during their services. The tabernacle is in the middle and the congregants are like the twelve tribes surrounding it for its protection.
I took a moment to notice the work that went into the inside of the synagogue. The blue stained glass was like the ocean that they crossed to come here. Island touches included wood-engraved shells, reeds, and ovals like fishes.
The museum section provides information on the history of the Jewish people and their life in Curacao. You will find artifacts and a good timeline of Jewish history. The gift shop next door had religious items along with other souvenirs.
Also, note that during our visit we wore kippahs or skullcaps in the synagogue, and photos were allowed in the synagogue but not in the museum. For more information on proper attire and services go to snoa.com.
Going to the Markets
Willemstad used to be known for the Floating Market with small boats filled with fruits and vegetables from Venezuela, but that has stopped with the troubles in that country which is a bit sad.
So we headed to the New Market and Old Market areas. The New Market is not much to look at from the outside. It is a round building surrounded by stalls. It had a number of merchants selling souvenirs and crafts, but I didn’t see prices here any better than by the ship and nothing unique. There were plenty of fruits and vegetables to choose from if you are in the mood for a treat.
Down the street is the Old Market. It is not really a market but a large place to sample local food from a menu. We weren’t sure what Andrew would want and decided against it. If it had been only the two of us we might have gone for it.
Going Fast Food
We decided to take a break and let him have a treat, at McDonald’s.
They do have different menu items than they do have a home. Also, the combination menu was done in their language.
We let him have his meal and we had some burgers. After a quick bite, we decided to have a late lunch later either in town or on the cruise ship. I should have taken more time to check out the specialties in the bakery section, but didn’t.
Park Stop
After Andrew finished eating we walked by more shops and then up to the main square of the town, Queen Wilhelminapark.
Here you can get a photo yourself with Curacao spelled out in large letters.
The best part of Andrew was an iguana slide and climbing structure, not every day can you play on that. We took some time to let him play here.
The best part for Andrew was an iguana slide and climbing structure, not every day can you play on that. We took some time to let him play here.
Yellow-painted stone government buildings that are lovely to see surrounding the square.
They still had some Santa Clauses done in the Caribbean style, which was cool. You could also see other statues, although I was not sure what they represented.
I walked around checking out the Dutch historic buildings with their circular and pointed tops.
Fort Amsterdam
Next, we headed towards Fort Amsterdam, the fort wall along the sea here was interspersed with restaurants and bars facing the ocean. It was a pretty area.
We walked all around Fort Amsterdam before locating the entrance. The inside was unimpressive, with more government buildings.
Although there was the Fort Church, inside you can find displays and artifacts, and cultural treasures of the Protestant community of Curacao. I went up to the entrance to find no one around with a bell to ring.
I could see inside a bit by the open windows. It looked like a nice enough church. I asked if David wanted to tour it and we decided to do another museum instead so we left the bell to be rung by someone else.
A cannonball can be found wedged into the outside of the church, shot by the British. I somehow missed seeing it when we walked into the interior courtyard. Although, later looking at the photo I was able to find it.
Down by the Bay
Heading back towards the floating bridge again this time we walked on the other side of the bay and went to the Iguana Café, well known for ice cream. Here I found a bright orange coffee mug for three dollars and decided to buy it. Andrew had an ice pop and I had a small scoop of vanilla.
Blue Curacao Tasting
Just down the waterfront, we stopped to taste the Blue Curacao Liqueur. It is produced using the original recipe from 1896. The key ingredient of the Genuine Blue Curacao Liqueur is the “Golden Orange of Curacao” or Laraha as the locals call it. The Laraha is the bitter orange native to Curacao.
We tried the liqueur and it was a bit strong, we might have bought some if we hadn’t already bought some Dominican rum. We could have learned more about the drink, but we had the kid and still had more to see.
Another Playground Stop
Taking the pontoon bridge back across the bay, we journeyed to the Kura Hulanda Museum, but on the way, we came across another playground. This was a large one and worthy of a stop for Andrew.
African American Culture in Willemstad.
The Museum Kura Hulanda has the largest African collection in the Caribbean. The compound is amazing itself with restored whitewashed former residences.
On the way to the museum in the compound, we came across a created waterfall that goes from one pool to another among pink rock-crusted walls. It is very nice.
You enter the visitor’s center through a towering arched portal a replica of the city gate in Djenne, Mali.
What was amazing in the main courtyard was a huge bronze sculpture called “Africa” resembling both the continent and a native man’s head. Inside we came across artifacts, furniture, paintings, photographs, and books on African culture.
The museum also tells the tale of slavery in the Americas. You can see irons and shackles used. There is even a bottom of the ship recreated. I didn’t go into much detail for Andrew, as that would scare him, but I did explain that people were badly treated and people were tightly packed in the underbelly of the ships.
When we went into the galley he said it was spooky down there and I agreed.
Murals painted on some of the walls also show their lives. The place is filled with artifacts that are worth checking out. It was an amazing museum.
If Andrew were older I would have explained more about what the museum was showing.
Back to the Ship
After going there we headed back through the shopping area of the Rif Fort. We went into a souvenir shop and we bought some cocoanut soda, which was not to bad and not something I usually have. Then back on board for a very late lunch.
Free Time on the Port that Night
That evening Andrew wanted to go back to the kid’s camp. Since the ship was here for a while we decided to go back into the town letting them know that we would be in the area of the Rif Fort.
At night the pontoon bridge is filled with light from LED rods forming archways across the bridge. It is lit up in a rainbow of colors. Across the bay, the historic Dutch buildings are also shed in golden light. It was very pretty at night.
By the bridge on the city side, there is a metal heart filled with locks, part of the love locks movement we saw in Europe. It was interesting to look at all the different locks hung here.
We did have a run-in with a bit of an aggressive panhandler, but this can happen anywhere and he finally got the hint to move on.
We headed back towards the ship and saw some people we had talked to at a restaurant the night before. Here you could have local liquor or beer. It was a gorgeous night and decided to have a drink with them. The bay and cruise ship were right in front of us, so it was the closest location.
A young gay couple came by and joined us. They had been in a minor accident. They had been riding a motorbike and got clipped purposely by an irate driver. Luckily there were people nearby who saw what happened and called the ambulance to have their wounds dressed. They both had scrapes all over them. They were not seriously hurt, just a lot of bumps and scrapes, it was sad to hear and reminded me of the dangers of driving in a foreign place.
David and I had thought about renting a golf cart on Grand Turk, I think it was just as well as we didn’t.
We also usually do excursions done by the cruise. We didn’t today because we were only walking around the city.
One Last Thought
I had considered heading to the Hato Caves, but using a taxi would have been complicated since who knew if the taxi would wait. We had seen that taxis do tours, but none mentioned the caves, so that was also not a destination they usually do.
I think checking out the different sites in town was well worth it. If we came back to Curacao we could do an excursion then.
Tomorrow would be our last island, Aruba.
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