Find fossils of Ancient American rhinos, gazelle-camels, and a huge meat-eating pig at Agate Fossil Beds National Monument in the Nebraska panhandle.
This summer, I am detailing our road trip to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore as a series for a family adventure you might want to do! We stopped by this national monument on our way back to St. Louis after staying the night in Hot Springs, South Dakota.
About Agate Fossil Beds National Monument
About 20 million years ago a drought struck the western Nebraska plains. Deprived of food, hundreds of animals died around a few shallow water holes. Buried over time under silt, sand, and ash were their skeletons. Preserved today are hundreds of fossilized skeletons near these ancient waterholes.
IN THE VISITORS CENTER
Fossil Exhibits
A life-size diorama showcases mounted skeletons of the Miocene Epoch mammals discovered in the Agate Springs quarries.
This includes the meat-eating Dinohyus (or terrible pig”)., the long-necked, claw-towed Moropus, and the snarling bear dog.
Other smaller displays in the visitor center’s south half feature real and replica fossils and mounted skeletons of additional 20-million-year-old mammals discovered in the area.
We saw the fossils of the small long-legged Stenomylus or ancient camel. They were roughly two feet hike and lived in herds.
My son Andrew liked the preserved fossil rhino tracks.
Also, offered at the center is a 12- minute orientation video about the fossils and dig here.
Cook Collection of American Indian Artifacts
Besides the fossils, you can see a collection of Indian artifacts provided by James H. Cook, a frontiersman, and scout who was close friends with Sioux Chief Red Cloud.
See pictographs painted on hides—one of a buffalo hunt and one of Custer’s Last Stand. Then the collection has saddles, bows, shirts – including one of Red Cloud’s that he gave Cook, moccasins, bags, war clubs, pikes, and guns.
EXPLORING TRAILS AT THE NATIONAL MONUMENT
What You Will Find On the Daemonelix Trail
Located near the entrance of the park is the one-mile Daemonelix Trail which includes fossil remains.
You can see a dry land beaver’s curious spiral burrows, the Daemonelix or Devil’s Corkscrew.
Visitors walk along ancient sand dunes and fossil grassland soils called paleosols.
Start of the Hike
At the start of the trail, there are information boards about the hike. Next, we pass by rock formations 19-22 million years old. Benches are along the path.
Ancient Dunes
A large rock we saw is actually ancient sand done. It is sandstone composed of fine volcanic particles transported by wind from volcanoes in what is now Utah and Nevada.
Cliff Screw Holes
Next, we stopped by a cliff with a sign explaining that halfway up the cliff face are vertical spiral shapes. These sandstone spirals are burrows of the Paleocastor or dry land beaver. The spacing and number of burrows suggest that his beaver formed and lived in colonies, much like present-day prairie dogs.
The trail now went to a more natural surface as we headed close to the upland area.
At one stop along the way, we found a corkscrew sheltered from the elements in a glass box. The nearby sign explained that it was first thought that the corkscrews were fossils instead of the ancient beaver lairs.
Along the Cliffs
Here we found bright yellow flowers on the cliffs.
Then a high view back at where we had walked.
Next, we came across another corkscrew preserved behind glass.
Andrew looked close into the grass finding cactuses.
We saw some blue flowers before arriving at a lookout.
A sign here explained that this overlook was once on an open plain, but streams carved this area out. White limestone, formed from hardened lime mud, caps the overlook.
At the Daemonelix Trail’s highest point, we looked out over not only James H. Cook’s historic Agate Springs Ranch, the man who once farmed this national monument and discovered the fossils. Also, we can see out over the Niobrara River valley and the vast high plains.
We walked along the rocky expanse looking out along the plains. Small cliffside overhangs are also along here.
Heading Back
The trail goes back down along the cliffs.
Preserved in a glass box is a Daemonelix formation. This one shows a double formation leading to two den chambers, most have a single one.
A sign explains how the different surfaces of the rock show time periods. Deposited 22 million years ago is the lowest gray part. Another layer shows stream deposits, volcanic sandstone, fossil plants, and insect burrows.
Examining fossil soils helps paleontologists learn about plant roots and animal burrows according to another sign.
Back at the Start
A large board map points out six other National Park Service sites featuring the Cenozoic Era fossils along with other nearby National Sites.
FOSSIL HILLS TRAIL
This 2.7 mile-wheel-chair-accessible paved trail begins at the visitor center. From the visitor center, the trail crosses the Niobrara River and its wetlands, passes through prairie grasses, and then loops around University and Carnegie Hill. Excavations for the fossils took place here.
Signs along the trail point out the variety of historic and geologic features and identify plants.
Along the trail is an unpaved one-mile side trail that leads west to Harold J. Cook’s homestead cabin.
We only explored the start of the trail. There are no fossils here since they have already been excavated and it is a nature area and historic walk.
TRAIL WARNING
Be aware rattlesnakes can be found off or near the trail. During the summer months the open expanse can be hot so bring a hat and water.
FINAL THOUGHTS ON AGATE FOSSIL BEDS
Agate Fossil Beds National Monument has a lot to offer when it comes to learning about fossils on the great plains We stopped here on our drive back home going from the Black Hills through the Panhandle to St. Louis with a stop at Scotts Bluff National Monument in Scotts Bluff, Neb.
We enjoyed seeing the fossils and exploring the grounds where they came from. I would recommend this as a stop if you are making a thru drive like we were.
DETAILS
Drive: From St. Louis take Interstate 70 west to Kansas City and in Kansas City turn onto Interstate 29 to go north. Next, take Exit 2 outside of Nebraska City and make a left onto Nebraska Highway 2. This highway will join up with U.S. Highway in Lincoln, Nebraska. From 77 exit onto Interstate 80 going west.
Take exit 126 and make a left onto U.S. Highway 30 briefly before making a right onto U.S. Highway 26 and go west on this road until you get to Mitchell, Nebraska.
Make a right turn onto Nebraska Highway 29 and go north until you see the sign for Agate Fossil Beds National Monument.
Hours: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily May 15- Sept. 20 – Summer; 8 a.m. – 4 p.m. daily Oct. 30 – May 14
Fee: Free
Address: 301 River Rd, Harrison, NE 69346
Night’s Stay: Hampton Inn & Suites Scottsbluff-Conference Center
We stayed the night at a Hampton Inn in Scottsbluff, Neb., after going to Agate Fossil Beds National Monument.
Address: 301 US-26, Scottsbluff, NE 69361
Next, stop home on our way back to St. Louis is the towering Scotts Bluff National Monument!
STOPS ON THE WAY TO AGATE FOSSIL BEDS NATIONAL MONUMENT FROM HOT SPRINGS, SD
Cascade Falls
Along the drive to Agate Fossil Beds, we stopped at Cascade Falls which is just right off South Dakota Highway 71 from a small parking lot.
Address: JH Keith Cascade Falls Picnic Area, Hot Springs, SD 57747
Fort Robinson State Park
You can also stop at Fort Robinson State Park which does have a number of activities. We only stopped here briefly for a restroom break.
Admission for numerous activities and for the park.
Address: 3200 US-20, Crawford, NE 69339
Previous Hotel: Hot Springs Inn
Small mom-and-pop hotel with miniature golf. Also, you can walk along a paved trail that leads to historic downtown Hot Springs and see the town’s namesake hot springs along the trail.
Address: 640 S 6th St, Hot Springs, SD 57747
EARLIER STOPS ON THE TRIP
Seeing a Shoot-Out and Waterfalls in South Dakota
We drove through the scenic Spearfish Canyon from Spearfish, South Dakota, to Deadwood, South Dakota, which has casinos, shops, and for us an Old West shootout. This included a short hike to the bottom of Spearfish Falls in Savoy, South Dakota.
Marveling at the Height of Devils Tower National Monument
A large column of rock rises 1,267 feet above the nearby Belle Fourche River to form Devils Tower National Monument.
Exploring Medicine Rocks State Park in Montana
Jutting up to the sky in the rolling grass and pine-covered hills of southeastern Montana are the pockmarked knobs of Medicine Rocks State Park.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park North Unit
The Theodore Roosevelt National Park North Unit has cannonball-shaped rocks and brightly colored canyons coupled with the Little Missouri River.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park: South Unit
Take in the views of eroded canyons and see prairie dogs and wild stallions at Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park: Painted Canyon
Panoramic canyon views and hiking trails are found at Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s Painted Canyon Visitor’s Center.
Seeing Mount Rushmore and Exploring the Black Hills
Staring up at the iconic presidents carved in stone was a day at Mount Rushmore National Memorial about 30 minutes south of Rapid City, S.D. Mount Rushmore National Memorial features 60-foot sculptures of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln. Designed by sculptor Gutzon Borglum, the memorial covers 1.278.45 acres and sits 5,725 feet above sea level.
Badlands National Park: East Side Hiking
In Badlands National Park you can see unusual rock formations and canyons with vibrant colors and plenty of hiking trails to explore.
Badlands National Park: West Side Hiking
At Badlands National Park we took short hikes along the Loop Road checking out fossils and going up into the Badlands along a trail. We also stopped at the many overlooks for different views of the canyons and spires we drove by.
Discovering the Sioux Falls Waterfall
Seeing a waterfall at sunset in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, was part of our first night on our summer trip to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore.
Driving to the Highest Point in Iowa
Surrounded by cornfields on a windswept hill stands Hawkeye Point, the highest natural point in Iowa at 1,670 feet.
