Grounds of a former 19th century U.S. Military installation and ruins of a popular summer retreat in the 1930s can be explored at Fort Belle Fontaine County Park in North St. Louis County.

Rumors are this place is haunted by soldiers and it does have an eerie vibe to it with all the ruins.

I also stopped nearby at what is sadly known as “Small Pox” island due to the death of many Civil War soldiers imprisoned on the island.

History

Fort Bellefontaine

Before the fort was built Lewis and Clark camped on an island opposite nearby Coldwater Creek.

Fort Belle Fontaine was completed in 1805 as the first U.S. military installation west of the Mississippi River. It was a gathering place for the military, Native Americans, French, Spanish, and Americans. Lewis & Clark visited this fort on their return journey in 1806.

This original fort deteriorated by 1809 and a new fort was built high on a bluff. It included 30 buildings, several blockhouses, a rectangular palisade, and an arsenal. In 1825 this fort was abandoned with the building of Jefferson Barracks in South St. Louis County.

The City of St. Louis acquired the Fort Belle Fontaine property in 1913 and built a detention home and training school for boys. In the 1930s the Work Progress Administration (WPA) built a “grand staircase” of stone steps from the riverbank to the top of the bluff, as well as trails and facilities for the beach area along the Missouri River that was once here. This area is now a St. Louis County park.

Our Time Here

Coming to the Park

Since the St. Louis County park is on the grounds of the detention home you have to stop first at the guardhouse and tell them you are here to hike and they will write down your plate number. This was a simple process.

First Parking Area

I drove by the first parking lot. This is the main one to use for the complete 2.7-mile hike. Since I was not sure how much hiking my son Andrew was up for I headed into the school area and up the hill and to the small parking area near the “grand staircase.”

Grand Staircase

This is my favorite part of the hike. First, we stood at the top of the large stairs and looked out over the Missouri River. Then we headed down. The staircase is made up of two sets of stairs on each side with terraces as you go down to the river. It seems when this place was active there were water fountains at each level and it is a little sad to see it in ruins.

Yet, the structure is still in good shape and maintained by St. Louis County.

At the bottom is the loop trail. On the mid-level of the stairs, there is a side trail that goes into the woods. It looked a bit spooky, so Andrew didn’t want to check it out.

Going Left

I asked a well-built African American man that was walking the trail which way was the ruins.

He said, “Go left and you’ll come across different sections as you walk.”

I thanked him and headed on after we took in views of the river.

The Ruins

First, we came to a large stone patio with picnic tables surrounding a cliff. I wondered if there had been a spring here at one time since there were fissures in the rocks.

This area also included crumbled fireplaces.

Next, we passed one of the roofless bathhouses that were at both ends of the former concession area.

Andrew and I played a game of chase going in out of the first former bathhouse.

In the former concession area, you can wander in and out of the columns. Decorative window ledges on the cliffside end in huge rocks. It gave a feeling of hidden rooms in the cliffs. We continued our game of chase at the last bathhouse.

I wanted to head onto the Coldwater Creek area but he wanted to go back to the stairs. ( A note below about the contaminated Coldwater Creek.)

Taking Side Trails

We went off the trail and took a side trail near the river. Here we saw an embankment that went into the river, which is low right now. Solid white bluffs were just below us tiering down to the brown water below. I might have checked it out further if I was alone.

Then we headed to the staircase once more. This time he wanted to run fast up them and stay ahead of me.

At the Top

The area near the parking was worth exploring. Towards the back of the parking is a roofless stone gazebo that had been built in the 1930s.

A small building constructed from the original stone of the fort can be seen nearby. If you look closely you can see the different rockwork in it. A sign hangs above the door “Fort Belle Fontaine 1805-1825.”

Here also you can find a sign marking where the explorer’s Lewis & Clark camped. It is near the trees up from the parking.

Heading Out

I drove around a bit checking out the boys’ home buildings. Also in this area is K-9 Corps Cemetery that lists the names of deceased police dogs.

Back by the first parking, I saw a lot of people with dogs. So this area might serve as a dog park for some if you bring Fido along with you.

I stopped once more at the guardhouse. She quickly checked my license plate and I was on my way.

NOTE: The road entering the park is narrow, so drive slow. Also, do not enter Coldwater Creek it is contaminated by nuclear waste.

DETAILS

Drive: Take Interstate 270 East to exit 31B to merge onto MO-367 N/Lewis and Clark Blvd toward Alton, Il. Then make a slight right toward Lusher Road and follow this road to New Jamestown Road. Turn right onto New Jamestown Road and then a left onto Bellefontaine Road which heads into the park.

Hours: 7 am – 8 pm daily

Admission: Free

Address: 13002 Bellefontaine Rd, St. Louis, MO 63138

Stopping for Lunch on Smallpox Island

I decided to see the Mississippi River today and went to Lincoln Shields Recreation Area across the river from Alton. Here we had lunch at a picnic place.

The park grounds were once part of an old lock and dam and you can see a remnant of it here.

Yet, it has a sad history. This area had once been called “Small Pox Island.” This piece of land was once an island and had a prison for Confederate soldiers during the Civil War.

The prison had a smallpox outbreak and to keep the prisoners safe from others they were transferred to this island where many died. A cemetery for the soldiers was inadvertently discovered with the building of the original lock and dam. A memorial was then built here for them.

I had forgotten this history when I chose to eat here.

DETAILS:

Drive: Directions are the same heading out of St. Louis. Drive: Take Interstate 270 East to exit 31B to merge onto MO-367 N/Lewis and Clark Blvd to US-67N heading towards Alton. Turn right onto Riverlands Way before the bridge into Illinois. Turn left onto the outer road along US-67 and follow it along as it crosses under the highway. Then make a right into the recreation area.

Hours: Sunrise to Sunset

Admission: Free

Address: West Alton, MO 63386

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Halloween Hikes are hikes that I spotlight in October that fit the spirit of Halloween. Feel free to share suggestions for hikes to do in the future. Also, post any questions you might have on the hikes!