Ljubljana: Medieval Castle, Dragons, and Art Nouveau

The capital of Slovenia, Ljubljana, will be our first stop in the Balkan countries. My son can’t wait to see the dragon bridge, it is the Slovenian symbol and can be seen throughout the old town. The beauty of the city’s architect is best seen on foot, so here we go walking in the streets of Ljubljana! (Links are for Google Map Designations)

What To See In A Short Walk Around The Main Square

Prešeren trg: is a square that began as link between medieval Ljubljana and the center district. It is filled with wonderful architecture, cafes, bridges and a monument. Here is rundown of sites you can see by this square.

On the east side of the square is the bronze France Prešeren monument in honor of Slovenia’s national poet who also wrote the Slovenian national hymn. The statue was a bit controversial at first since he stands underneath a female naked muse holding a laurel wreath.

The monument faces the Tromostovje (Triple Bridge), which is a group of three stone bridges designed by Slovenian renowned architect Jože Plečnik across the Ljubljanica River. The bridges connect the old town on one side and the new town on the other.

On the square is the pink Frančiškanska cerkev (Church of Annunciation) open from 10 am – 6 pm. The centerpiece inside is Francesco Robba’s 18^th century marble high altar.

Across the street from the church is the architectural gem Secessionist Hauptmann House, who’s façade is decorated with a geometric pattern of colored ceramic tiles in contrasting green, blue and red tones. Look down behind this building along Wolfvca Ulica and you will see in stone Julija Primic looking out her window admiring her life-long love Prešeren.

Also on the square is the Ljubljana Central Pharmacy constructed in the Neo-Renaissance style.

If you are already lost, like I am sometimes in a new city, there is a city model of Ljubljana in front of the Hauptmann House.

Walking up the Miklošičeva cesta there are number of other interesting buildings to see.

The Galerija Emporium is a large fashion store housed in a renovated Art Nouveau palace. The building’s entrance includes a semicircular canopy in the shape of a flat open, fan-like petal cluster made from glass and wrought iron. On top of the building, above the front façade, there is a neo-Baroque statue of Mercury, the god of commerce and protector of merchants.

Grand Hotel Union is another building constructed in the Art Nouveau style and consists of two wings connected by a protruding domed corner turret. The façade is ornamented with plant motifs, which vary from floor to floor.

Also, up the street is the Secessionist Zadružna zveza with its statues, and grand ornamentation then the Vurnikova hiša Cooperative Business Bank Buildingwith its decorative ornaments in the colors of Solvene tricolor and was inspired by Vienna Secession style of Art Nouveau.

Walk Around Old Town Ljubljana

Mesarski Most (Butchers’ Bridge): An area once lined by butcher boothsis now where lovers leave padlocks and drop their keys in the river as an act of undying love. The bridge has an interesting array of statues done by Slovenian Sculptor Jakov Brdbar and are a mixture of large and small of deformed creatures alluding to its past.

Central Market: On the other side of the bridge is the market, which includes an open market located in the Vodnikov trg and Pogačarnev trg squares, a covered market situated in between the two squares, and a series of small food shops along the river Ljubljanica, which are referred to as ‘Plečnik’s Covered Market’ as they are located in a colonnade designed by Ljubljana’s famous architect Jože Plečnik.

Ljubljanska Stolnica Sv. Nikolaha (The Cathedral St. Nicholas of Ljubljana)Across from the market is the cathedral and inside it is a palace of pink marble, white stucco and gilt, with frescoes done by Guilio Quaglio and 19^th century artist Matevz Langus.

Hours: Open long hours but closed from 12 pm to 3 pm.

Admission: Free.

Address: Dolničarjeva ulica 1 1000 Ljubljana.

Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge): Is adorned with four dragon statues. The reinforced concrete bridge was built in the Art Nouveau style between 1900 and 1901. When it was opened it was called the Jubilee Bridge of Emperor Franz, but the dragon name has stuck through time.

Rotovž or Magistrat (Ljubljana Town Hall): The façade reflects Venetian architectural influences and includes a clock tower. On vestibule you will see a Gothic plaque with a coat of arms. Also on the building is a 17^th century statue of Hercules with a lion. Inside there is a richly decorated courtyard with a map of 17^th century Ljubljana. The building is topped with a dragon.

In the town hall’s courtyard is Robbov vodnjak (The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers)created by Francesco Robba. The fountain is modeled after Roman ones. The sculptures represent the river gods and the three Carniolan Rivers: the Sava, the Ljubljanica and the Krka.

Mestni Tri to Stari Trg: You will find a mixture of courtyards, wood storefronts and cobblestone passageways. Go down Pod Tranco and see the Cobbler’s Bridge built by architect Jože Plečnik in 1932. Look up as you enter the bridge to see the many shoes hanging above. The bridge is made up of pillars topped with stone balls. The greenery of nearby plants and trees by the river make for romantic views.

Farther down the Stari Trig you will come across the Hercules Fountain. It is adorned with a statue of Hercules, although the original is now in the vestibule of the town hall. The verses inscribed on its memorial plaque are by the 20th century Slovenian poet Janez Menart.

Ljubljanski Grad (Ljubljana Castle): Now having walked down Stari Trip you can gain access to the castle by a funicular for €4 round trip and it runs every ten minutes. The castle has stood on the hill above Ljubljana for 900 years. The caste’s Outlook Tower and ramparts offer some beautiful views of the city below. The castle has a museum on Slovenian history, a puppet museum, historical rooms, such as, the Chapel of St. George, the Prison, and a video presentation room called Virtual Castle. The castle also houses a nightclub, two restaurants and a café.

Hours: Open daily from 9 am to 11 pm with shorter hours Oct. – May. The castle attractions are open 9 am to 9 pm daily and shorter hours Oct. – May.

Admission: Touring the grounds is free. Admission to attractions are €7.50 or €10 with round-trip funicular ride. For €2 more you can have personal or audio guide tour.

Address: Grajska planota 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Other Squares to Checkout:

Kongresni Trg Congress Square: This square is surrounded by Ljubljana University, Philharmonic Hall and the Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity. At the top end of the square by the pedestrian underpass is a copy of the gilded bronze statue of a Roman patrician excavated from a site next to the Kazina building in 1836. In Roman times, the area was the site of a burial ground. If you go into the underpass you will find Chopin Passageway with exposed parts of a Roman Road and a model of Emona, the Roman settlement that was here then.

Trg Republike (Square of the Republic): The main place to see here is the Slovenian Parliament Building (Državni zbor Republike Slovenije), two-story entrance portal flanked by Zdenko Kalin and Karl Putrih’s statues representing working people.

Near the square is the Narodni muzej Slovenije(Slovenian National Museum) and Prirodoslovni Muzej Slovenije (Slovenian Museum of Natural History): are two museum housed in the same building. The national museum shares archeological finds and the natural history museum shares flora and fauna of Slovenia.

Trg Francoske Revolucije (French Revolution Square): This square has the Illirja Column in the middle dedicated to Napoleon and His Illyrian Provinces (1809-13), when Slovene was taught in school for the first time and Napoleon made Ljubljana the capital of his Illyrian Provinces. Near the square is the Mestni muzej Ljubljana (Ljubljana City Museum): that covers the history, culture and politics of the city.

Also, by the square is the Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica (National and University Library: The inside of the library includes the monumental central staircase with 32 pillars of black Podpeč marble and the library’s grand reading room has Plečnik’s chandeliers and a couple of glass walls allowing light to reach wooden reader desks and books from two sides.

Two Other Architectural Highlights

Nebotičnik (Skyscraper): Built in 1933 it was the tallest building in the Balkans at that time. Constructed in the Art Deco style and the lobby is lined with Karst marble along with many statues. Up the center of the building is a spiral stairway. You can take and elevator to the top has a roof terrace with a café.

Address: Štefanova ulica 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Muzej za arhitekturo in oblikovanje (Museum of Architecture of Design Ljubljana): is the Slovenian Museum for architecture housed in a 17^th century castle. You will also fine exhibits on Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik in the annex.

Hours: Tuesday – Sunday 10 am – 6 pm and Thursday 10 am to 8 pm.

Admission: Adults €6 and Students €4 for one museum and combined it is Adults €8.50 and Students €6.

Address: Pot na Fužine 2, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia