The old part of Split is tucked away in the ruins of a Roman palace and we’ll be exploring the city for a bit. We will leave here on a ferryboat bound for our last Dalmatian coast destination, Dubrovnik.
Dioklecijanova Palace
A fortress-like palace built by Roman Emperor Gaius Aurelia Valeria Diocletian in the 3rd century AD as his summer residence in his homeland. It took ten years to complete.
He probably constructed here due to the high quality of stone, mild climate and sulfur-rich thermal springs that should help relieve his aging. The palace was divided into four parts.
The northern part was for the emperor and religious ceremony. He believed in the Roman gods, but not the Christian God, his claim to infamy is the persecution of Christians. The southern part was for the Imperial guard. The whole complex is 30,000 square meters.
The ancient fortress has become part of the city. About 3,000 people live in the palace area now and it includes numerous shops, cafes, restaurants, and apartments.
PALACE’S FOUR GATES:
Northern Golden Gate (Zlatna Vrata) was once open to the Roman road and would have been where Diocletian entered the palace on June 1, 305. The facade was decorated with niches in which figurative sculptures of four tetrarha (Diocletian, Maksimijan, Gallery and Constance Chlorine).
Eastern Silver Gate (Srebrena Vrata), which lead to the main street all the way to the Iron Gate and to Pjace, today the central city square. Entering this gate you can see the remains of an octagonal tower and the original antique sidewalk at the Decumanus.
Western Iron Gate (Zeljezna Vrata) has been open through the 17 centuries of Split history. On the lattice there once stood the relief of Nike, the Roman goddess of victory, but in the fifth century Christians put a cross in its place.
Southern Bronze Gate (Mjedna Vrata) faces directly onto the sea, which it no longer does, and during Roman times boats would directly dock next to it. The doors have been partially restored with authentic door lucks that show the doors would have been waterproof back then.
WHAT TO SEE IN THE PALACE:
Podrumi (Diocletian’s Cellars)
Checkout the main hall and see the huge pillars that hold up the palace. During the Middle Ages there were holes cut into the ceilings to dump garbage down, luckily it has been cleaned up now. If you are “Game of Thrones” fan this is where Daenerys Targaryen had her dragons locked up. Other sights you can see down here include a sphinx, petrified beams, olive-oil press, bust of Diocletian, Roman sewer pipes and a cellar open to the upstairs.
Hours: Daily 8:30 am – 9 pm, June- Sept., Monday – Saturday 9 am – 5 pm, Sunday 9 am – 2 pm, Nov. – March.
Admission: 42 kuna.
Address: Ul. Andrije Medulića 4, 21000, Split, Croatia
Peristyle (Peristil)
From the Podrium you go up stone steps to the Peristyle. In Diocletian’s era it was colonnaded square and principal public space within the walls. Here the emperor would come forth and a subject would have to fall to the ground and kiss the hem of his scarlet cloak. Look around and see the red color of the granite columns, his imperial colors. At the end of the square a small chapel contains the Tourist Information center. Feel free to pose with Roman soldiers, have a cup of coffee or go out for dinner here later.
Vestibule
Above the Podrium exit stands the Vestibule, which was the grand entrance to Diocletian’s quarters. Diocletian believed himself to be a God, originally this quarters had statues, a dome, frescoes and mosaics. Groups singing, klapa traditional Dalmatian songs, take advantage of the Vestibule’s acoustics.
Katedrala Sv. Duje (Cathedral of St. Dominus)
Originally Diocletian’s mausoleum but after the fall of Rome it was turned into a cathedral, which is ironic since he persecuted the Christians. The church is dedicated to St. Dominus, after Bishop Dominus, who was one of the many victims of the purges. The only surviving remants of the Roman era are the granite columns and relief at the base of the dome showing the greatness of the emperor. We should take some time to checkout the sarcophagus of St. Dominus, the altar of St. Anastasius and the new altar of Dominus.
The church has original doors showing the life of Christ carved by Andrija Buvina, a local sculptor.
On the right of the cathedral is an Egyptian sphinx from 1500 BC, made of black granite.
You can also go up the 13th century Romanesque bell tower for a view of Split.
Exiting the main door and going down the stairs you can see the crypt that includes a well that supposedly had healing powers and a chapel dedicated to Saint Lucia.
Your ticket includes a visit to Jupiter’s Temple (St. John’s Baptistry) where you can see a 12th century baptismal font with engravings, a statue of St. John the Baptist, a barrel vaulted ceiling.
Hours: Monday- Saturday 8 am – 7 pm, Sunday 12 pm – 6 pm, winter daily 7 am – 12 pm. Note: The church can close for special events or weddings.
Admission: Cathedral, the crypt and Jupiter’s Temple 25 kuna. To include the bell tower you will pay 45 kuna, which also includes the treasury.
Address: Ul. Kraj Svetog Duje 5, 21000, Split, Croatia
OTHER SITES IN SPLIT
Gradska tržnica Stari pazar (City Market)
Checkout local vegetables, cheeses, salamis, teas and other supplies.
Hours: 5 am – 4 pm and closed on Sundays:
Address: Ul. Stari pazar, 21000, Split, Croatia
Galerija Meštrović (Mestrovic Gallery)
Housed in a marble villa planned by the artist himself, Ivan Mestrovic, who is considered the Rodin of Croatia. You can see some 200 sculptures done in wood, marble, stone and bronze. The gallery overlooks the sea and includes extensive gardens.
Hours: May-Sept. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am – 7 pm; Oct. – April, Tuesday- Saturday 9 am – 4 pm, Sunday 10 am – 3 pm.
Admission: 30 kuna
Address: Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, 21000, Split, Croatia
Croatian Maritime Museum Hrvatski pomorski muzej
The museum is in the 17th century Gripe Fortress. You can see a traditional fishing boat, model ships, sailing boats, artifacts from World War I and World War II and a unique collection of torpedoes.
Hours: Sept. 16 – June 14, Monday- Friday, 9 am to 4:30 pm; Thursday, 9 am – 7 pm; Saturday, 9 am – 1 pm. June 15 – Sept. 15, Monday- Friday, 9 am – 7 pm; Saturday, 9 am – 2 pm.
Admission: Adults 10 kunas and children and students 5 kunas.
Address: Glagoljaška Ulica 18, Gripe fortress
Crkva Svetog Martina (St. Martin’s Church)
A narrow Roman Catholic church built into the Golden Gate that had once been used as a guardhouse. It has a pre- Romanesque altar partition from the 11th century. It has irregular hours.
Address: Dioklecijanova ul. 10, 21000, Split, Croatia
Squares to Checkout
- Riva – the town’s main promenade along the sea.
- Marmontova – Another main street and make sure to checkout the out the “The Teacup” fountain.
- Narodni Trg (People’s Square) – The city’s main square that includes busy cafes and overlooked by the at one time 15th-cenutry Town Hall and look for the Nakic House a Secession style home.
- Trg Brace Radica (Radic Brothers Square) – Look for the Venetian Citadel tower and the sculpture of poet Marko Marulic.
Other Sights
- Etnografski Muzel (Ethnographic Museum)
- Muzej Grada Splita (Split City Museum
- Emanuel Vidovic Gallery
- Split Synagogue
- Galerija Umjetnina Split (Split Gallery of Fine Arts)
- Arheoloski Muzej (Archeological Museum).
Outside of Split
I will share what to see on the islands around Split in an upcoming blog post.
