Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit

Take in the views of eroded canyons and see prairie dogs and wild stallions at Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit.

This summer, I am detailing our road trip to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore as a series for a family adventure you might want to do!

My son with the Theodore Roosevelt National Park entrance sign
My son with the Theodore Roosevelt National Park entrance sign

Entering the Park

The entrance for the South Unit is in the town of Medora reached by taking exit 24 or 27 from Interstate 94.

First, we came to South Unit Visitor Center where you can gain information on the park. It is open daily from 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., Daily

Maltese Cabin
Maltese Cabin

Near the Entrance: Maltese Cabin

Behind the visitor’s center is Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin where he first lived when he came to North Dakota.

The logs of the cabin are the original ponderosa pine. Inside the cabin sits a replica of the small wooden writing desk that Roosevelt used. A trunk in the bedroom is made of wicker and duck skin, emblazoned with the letters “T.R.”.

Other items in the cabin are a mixture of period pieces along with a simple rocking chair thought to be his. To go inside the cabin, you would need to do a tour with a park ranger.

Medora Overlook

The first stop is the Medora Overlook. Here you have a view of the town and in the distance is the Chateau de Mores built by Marquis de Mores in 1883 as a hunting lodge. You can tour this lodge during the summer months. Check the website for when it is open.

Skyline Vista view
Skyline Vista view

Skyline Vista

From this stop, we looked out above the Little Missouri River and back across Interstate 94.

Skyline Vista information sign

This is a .1-mile trail to a lookout.

Passing by prairie dog towns
Passing by prairie dog towns

Prior to this stop, we passed by a large prairie dog town. We stopped for a moment watching them go from hole to hole and visiting each other. After this overlook is Cottonwood Campground and then we came by another prairie dog town and where the loop road begins.

Map of the drive with loop closure
Map of the drive with the loop closure from: https://www.nps.gov/thro/planyourvisit/conditions.htm

Part of Scenic Loop Drive Closed

Note that the Scenic Loop Drive between Mile Marker 24-28 is closed. With this closure, the drive is 24 miles out and 24 miles back for a distance of 48 miles total. You can take the drive to the Badlands Overlook where you turn around. Closures of the road or parts of it also occur during winter.

Wind Canyon Trail information sign
Wind Canyon Trail information sign

Wind Canyon Trail

Next, we stopped at parking for the Wind Canyon Trail to take a short hike in the badlands in the park.

Train through the canyon
The trail through the canyon

It is a .4-mile loop trail that goes to the best overlook of the Little Missouri River in the south unit. It starts out moderate but then becomes steep when it tops out.

Little Missouri River views
Little Missouri River views
My son Andrew looking through a hole in the rocky terrain.
My son Andrew looking through a hole in the rocky terrain.

This hike is worth it for the views and a chance to stand out on the cliffs or sit in them as my son did. The rocky terrain here includes holes that my son liked looking through.

Going down the stairs
Going down the stairs

After going to the top we headed down steps in the back of the high point here and then walked through flowers and sage.

Flowers along the trail walk
Flowers along the trail walk

Final Thoughts

For a short hike, it had a lot to offer with views and being out in nature. It also had some interesting terrain among the oddly formed cliffs with nooks and holes.

Wild horses
Wild horses

Drive to Boicourt Overlook

Along this drive, we passed by wild horses in the grasses in the park.

Burning coal vein
Burning coal vein

The highlight here was the sudden smell of burning coal. Smoke simmered up from black soil. This is a natural coal vein that burns. Signs here let people know not to report smoke here, since again this is natural. Fences keep people away from this strange sight.

Biocourt Overlook
Biocourt Overlook

We stopped briefly at the Biocourt Overlook before doing the trail.

Boicourt Trailhead
Boicourt Trailhead

Stopping at Boicourt Trail

This short .2-mile trail with a slight grade overlooks the badlands and is a good viewing spot during sunsets.

A view along the trail
A view along the trail

We walked out along this trail with views across the canyons along a high field that ends at a point. Then we headed for Buck Hill.

Buck Hill Trailhead
Buck Hill Trailhead

Buck Hill Trail Stop

This short .1-mile trail that is strenuous since it goes straight up was my favorite stop.

Far-off views
Far-off views

It allowed for far-off canyon views and I liked the strange-shaped cliffs. Although it was a workout to the top.

My son taking in the view.
My son taking in the view.
Cliff walk along the trail
A cliff walk along the trail

Buck Hill is a dead-end drive off the Scenic Loop Drive but is well worth taking the time to go out to it.

Driving On

Next, we passed by a sign for the Coal Vein Trail but did not have the time to do it today.

Coal Vein Trailhead
Old East Entrance Trail

Then stopped at the Old East Entrance Station Trailhead marking another way to once enter the park. This is .9 mile out and back trail that leads to the Old Entrance Station and by a prairie dog town.

We walked a short distance down this path along the rocky terrain before heading back to the car.

Badlands Overlook
Badlands Overlook

Badlands Overlook Trail

This was our last lookout with views of canyons in the distance. An information board provided context on what you see in the badlands when it comes to plants and rock formations.

Views of badland
Views of badland

After the overlook, we had to turn around and retrace the drive.

Buffalo

As we drove along we enjoyed seeing buffalo, prairie dogs, horses, and mule deer. I even spotted some turkeys crossing the road.

Flowers peaking through the rock
Flowers peeking through the rock

FINAL THOUGHTS ON THE SOUTH UNIT

I wish the weather had been better this day. The rain kept us from exploring more of the trails. We enjoyed the ones we took short walks with cliffs and far away views although most of all seeing the abundant wildlife.

National Park map of the area

MORE ON THE TRAILS

Coal Vein Trail

An inner loop is .6-mile and an outer loop is .8-mile. This trail helps you to learn about the geology and ecology of the badlands. Although the coal vein is no longer burning.

Maah Daah Hey

This trail stretches 96 miles across the National Grassland connecting all three units of the park and 7.1 miles go through the South Unit.

Lone Tree Loop

You can begin this 9.6-mile trail at Peaceful Valley Ranch by following the Ekblom Trail. To avoid a river crossing, access the loop via the Maah Daah Hey Trail. This will add 3.2 miles round trip. Be aware of difficult stream crossings.

Petrified Forest Loop

Located in the remote northwest corner of the South Unit, this hike takes you through ancient petrified forests and badlands wilderness. The loop includes the North and South Petrified Forest Trails as well as the Maah Daah Hey and is 10.3 miles.

Jones/Lower Talkington/Lower Paddock Loop

This 11.4-mile loop combines the Jones Creek Trail, the Lower Talkington Trail, and the Lower Paddock Creek Trail. Add it to the Upper Paddock/Talkington Loop for an epic adventure of 23.4 miles.

Upper Paddock/Talkington Loop

A 15.4 mile or 19.4 mile (Painted Canyon) trail combines part of the Lower Talkington Trail with the Upper Talkington and Upper Paddock Creek Trails. Accessing the loop from Painted Canyon will add 4 miles round trip to your hike.

Ridgeline Trail

The .6-mile trail explores along a nature trail with moderate to steep grades. (Currently Closed)

Opening between the cliffs at Buck Hill
Opening between the cliffs at Buck Hill

DETAILS:

Drive to Medora to the South Unit Visitor Center From St. Louis: Take Interstate 70 to Kansas City then go north on Interstate 29 and then in Fargo make a left onto Interstate 94. Look for Exit 27 and take that south to Medora. The entrance to the park will be a left onto East River Road.

Fees: Private Vehicle — $30 per vehicle and valid for 7 days; Motorcycle $25 per motorcycle and valid for 7 days; Individual $15 per person for a visitor traveling on foot, bicycle, horse, or other non-motorized means of travel; National Park Annual Pass $80. Active Military and dependents are FREE. Check the National Park Website for information on discounts.

Hours: 24 hours

Address:

201 E River Rd, Medora, ND 58645

Roosevelt Library in the hotel lobby houses 1,100 volumes of Theodore Roosevelt works and western lore.

STAYING IN MEDORA

Rough Riders Hotel

We headed back to Medora staying the night at the Rough Riders Hotel.

Address:

301 3rd Ave, Medora, ND 58645

Little Missouri Saloon & Dining Room

Dinner that night was bison burgers and fries at this restaurant which was within walking distance of the hotel.

Address:

440 3rd St, Medora, ND 58645

Chimney Park

Chimney Park

Next to the entrance to the South Unit is Chimney Park which are the ruins of a former meatpacking plant.

Address: 201 E River Rd, Medora, ND 58645

EARLIER SITES ALONG THE TRIP

Theodore Roosevelt National Park: Painted Canyon

Panoramic canyon views and hiking trails are found at Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s Painted Canyon Visitor’s Center.

Seeing Mount Rushmore and Exploring the Black Hills

Staring up at the iconic presidents carved in stone was a day at Mount Rushmore National Memorial about 30 minutes south of Rapid City, S.D. Mount Rushmore National Memorial features 60-foot sculptures of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln. Designed by sculptor Gutzon Borglum, the memorial covers 1.278.45 acres and sits 5,725 feet above sea level.

Badlands National Park: East Side Hiking

In Badlands National Park you can see unusual rock formations and canyons with vibrant colors and plenty of hiking trails to explore.

Badlands National Park: West Side Hiking

At Badlands National Park we took short hikes along the Loop Road checking out fossils and going up into the Badlands along a trail. We also stopped at the many overlooks for different views of the canyons and spires we drove by.

STOPS ALONG THE TRIP TO THE DAKOTAS

Discovering the Sioux Falls Waterfall

Seeing a waterfall at sunset in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, was part of our first night on our summer trip to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore.

Driving to the Highest Point in Iowa

Surrounded by cornfields on a windswept hill stands Hawkeye Point, the highest natural point in Iowa at 1,670 feet.

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