Take in the views of eroded canyons and see prairie dogs and wild stallions at Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit.
This summer, I am detailing our road trip to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore as a series for a family adventure you might want to do!
Entering the Park
The entrance for the South Unit is in the town of Medora reached by taking exit 24 or 27 from Interstate 94.
First, we came to South Unit Visitor Center where you can gain information on the park. It is open daily from 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., Daily
Near the Entrance: Maltese Cabin
Behind the visitor’s center is Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin where he first lived when he came to North Dakota.
The logs of the cabin are the original ponderosa pine. Inside the cabin sits a replica of the small wooden writing desk that Roosevelt used. A trunk in the bedroom is made of wicker and duck skin, emblazoned with the letters “T.R.”.
Other items in the cabin are a mixture of period pieces along with a simple rocking chair thought to be his. To go inside the cabin, you would need to do a tour with a park ranger.
Medora Overlook
The first stop is the Medora Overlook. Here you have a view of the town and in the distance is the Chateau de Mores built by Marquis de Mores in 1883 as a hunting lodge. You can tour this lodge during the summer months. Check the website for when it is open.
Skyline Vista
From this stop, we looked out above the Little Missouri River and back across Interstate 94.
This is a .1-mile trail to a lookout.
Prior to this stop, we passed by a large prairie dog town. We stopped for a moment watching them go from hole to hole and visiting each other. After this overlook is Cottonwood Campground and then we came by another prairie dog town and where the loop road begins.
Part of Scenic Loop Drive Closed
Note that the Scenic Loop Drive between Mile Marker 24-28 is closed. With this closure, the drive is 24 miles out and 24 miles back for a distance of 48 miles total. You can take the drive to the Badlands Overlook where you turn around. Closures of the road or parts of it also occur during winter.
Wind Canyon Trail
Next, we stopped at parking for the Wind Canyon Trail to take a short hike in the badlands in the park.
It is a .4-mile loop trail that goes to the best overlook of the Little Missouri River in the south unit. It starts out moderate but then becomes steep when it tops out.
This hike is worth it for the views and a chance to stand out on the cliffs or sit in them as my son did. The rocky terrain here includes holes that my son liked looking through.
After going to the top we headed down steps in the back of the high point here and then walked through flowers and sage.
Final Thoughts
For a short hike, it had a lot to offer with views and being out in nature. It also had some interesting terrain among the oddly formed cliffs with nooks and holes.
Drive to Boicourt Overlook
Along this drive, we passed by wild horses in the grasses in the park.
The highlight here was the sudden smell of burning coal. Smoke simmered up from black soil. This is a natural coal vein that burns. Signs here let people know not to report smoke here, since again this is natural. Fences keep people away from this strange sight.
We stopped briefly at the Biocourt Overlook before doing the trail.
Stopping at Boicourt Trail
This short .2-mile trail with a slight grade overlooks the badlands and is a good viewing spot during sunsets.
We walked out along this trail with views across the canyons along a high field that ends at a point. Then we headed for Buck Hill.
Buck Hill Trail Stop
This short .1-mile trail that is strenuous since it goes straight up was my favorite stop.
It allowed for far-off canyon views and I liked the strange-shaped cliffs. Although it was a workout to the top.
Buck Hill is a dead-end drive off the Scenic Loop Drive but is well worth taking the time to go out to it.
Driving On
Next, we passed by a sign for the Coal Vein Trail but did not have the time to do it today.
Then stopped at the Old East Entrance Station Trailhead marking another way to once enter the park. This is .9 mile out and back trail that leads to the Old Entrance Station and by a prairie dog town.
We walked a short distance down this path along the rocky terrain before heading back to the car.
Badlands Overlook Trail
This was our last lookout with views of canyons in the distance. An information board provided context on what you see in the badlands when it comes to plants and rock formations.
After the overlook, we had to turn around and retrace the drive.
As we drove along we enjoyed seeing buffalo, prairie dogs, horses, and mule deer. I even spotted some turkeys crossing the road.
FINAL THOUGHTS ON THE SOUTH UNIT
I wish the weather had been better this day. The rain kept us from exploring more of the trails. We enjoyed the ones we took short walks with cliffs and far away views although most of all seeing the abundant wildlife.
MORE ON THE TRAILS
Coal Vein Trail
An inner loop is .6-mile and an outer loop is .8-mile. This trail helps you to learn about the geology and ecology of the badlands. Although the coal vein is no longer burning.
Maah Daah Hey
This trail stretches 96 miles across the National Grassland connecting all three units of the park and 7.1 miles go through the South Unit.
Lone Tree Loop
You can begin this 9.6-mile trail at Peaceful Valley Ranch by following the Ekblom Trail. To avoid a river crossing, access the loop via the Maah Daah Hey Trail. This will add 3.2 miles round trip. Be aware of difficult stream crossings.
Petrified Forest Loop
Located in the remote northwest corner of the South Unit, this hike takes you through ancient petrified forests and badlands wilderness. The loop includes the North and South Petrified Forest Trails as well as the Maah Daah Hey and is 10.3 miles.
Jones/Lower Talkington/Lower Paddock Loop
This 11.4-mile loop combines the Jones Creek Trail, the Lower Talkington Trail, and the Lower Paddock Creek Trail. Add it to the Upper Paddock/Talkington Loop for an epic adventure of 23.4 miles.
Upper Paddock/Talkington Loop
A 15.4 mile or 19.4 mile (Painted Canyon) trail combines part of the Lower Talkington Trail with the Upper Talkington and Upper Paddock Creek Trails. Accessing the loop from Painted Canyon will add 4 miles round trip to your hike.
Ridgeline Trail
The .6-mile trail explores along a nature trail with moderate to steep grades. (Currently Closed)
DETAILS:
Drive to Medora to the South Unit Visitor Center From St. Louis: Take Interstate 70 to Kansas City then go north on Interstate 29 and then in Fargo make a left onto Interstate 94. Look for Exit 27 and take that south to Medora. The entrance to the park will be a left onto East River Road.
Fees: Private Vehicle — $30 per vehicle and valid for 7 days; Motorcycle $25 per motorcycle and valid for 7 days; Individual $15 per person for a visitor traveling on foot, bicycle, horse, or other non-motorized means of travel; National Park Annual Pass $80. Active Military and dependents are FREE. Check the National Park Website for information on discounts.
Hours: 24 hours
Address:
201 E River Rd, Medora, ND 58645
STAYING IN MEDORA
Rough Riders Hotel
We headed back to Medora staying the night at the Rough Riders Hotel.
Address:
Little Missouri Saloon & Dining Room
Dinner that night was bison burgers and fries at this restaurant which was within walking distance of the hotel.
Address:
Chimney Park
Next to the entrance to the South Unit is Chimney Park which are the ruins of a former meatpacking plant.
Address: 201 E River Rd, Medora, ND 58645
EARLIER SITES ALONG THE TRIP
Theodore Roosevelt National Park: Painted Canyon
Panoramic canyon views and hiking trails are found at Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s Painted Canyon Visitor’s Center.
Seeing Mount Rushmore and Exploring the Black Hills
Staring up at the iconic presidents carved in stone was a day at Mount Rushmore National Memorial about 30 minutes south of Rapid City, S.D. Mount Rushmore National Memorial features 60-foot sculptures of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln. Designed by sculptor Gutzon Borglum, the memorial covers 1.278.45 acres and sits 5,725 feet above sea level.
Badlands National Park: East Side Hiking
In Badlands National Park you can see unusual rock formations and canyons with vibrant colors and plenty of hiking trails to explore.
Badlands National Park: West Side Hiking
At Badlands National Park we took short hikes along the Loop Road checking out fossils and going up into the Badlands along a trail. We also stopped at the many overlooks for different views of the canyons and spires we drove by.
STOPS ALONG THE TRIP TO THE DAKOTAS
Discovering the Sioux Falls Waterfall
Seeing a waterfall at sunset in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, was part of our first night on our summer trip to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore.
Driving to the Highest Point in Iowa
Surrounded by cornfields on a windswept hill stands Hawkeye Point, the highest natural point in Iowa at 1,670 feet.
