Touring the Battle of Athens State Historic Site

A walk through history as you tour mill ruins, historic homes, and a battleground at the Battle of Athens State Historic Site.

The site is located about three hours north of St. Louis near the Iowa border.

General Store

We first stopped at the former Athens, Mo., General Store. The building is open to the outdoors and now serves as a picnic shelter. Inside you can read signs that describe the history of the store. It was once at the corner of Spring and Thome Street along a path that went down to the ferry that once crossed the Des Moines River.

A nearby sign shows the town at its height from 1853-1860 when it was an important port along the river pre-Civil War.

Monument

Next, we saw a monument explaining that the Battle of Athens on Aug. 5, 1861, was the northernmost Civil War battle west of the Mississippi River.

BATTLE OF ATHENS HISTORY

First, a short history lesson to better understand what happened here. Athens prospered until the outbreak of the Civil War. Settled by people from the upper South. Considered by Unionists to be a hotbed of pro-South sentiment. As the spring of 1861 moved into summer, northeast Missourians began choosing sides in the ever-widening national conflict.

Pro-Unionists rallied around David Moore, who had raised a force of about 500 men. Moore entered and occupied Athens on July 24, seizing homes and businesses from pro-South supporters to quarter and provision his troops. Pro-South supporters rallied around Col. Martin Green. Green raised a force of about 3,000 men, including two of Moore’s sons.

The confrontation between Moore’s and Green’s forces took place in Athens on Aug. 5, 1861. The battle began around 5 a.m. Moore and his Unionists were surrounded on three sides by Green’s troops, with the Des Moines River to their rear.

Despite being outnumbered at least five to one, Moore’s men were better trained and equipped.

After about two hours of fighting, at least 50 soldiers had been wounded or killed and the pro-South side was demoralized and in full retreat.

The big loser in the battle was the town of Athens. Bitter feelings between neighbors continued for decades following the Civil War. Athens was also hurt by the shift from the river to railroad transportation in the post-war era. By 1900, the once-thriving town was nearly gone.

(From the Battle of Athens State Historic Site website)

TOWN TOUR

Along a former road, we went by a white picket fence surrounding a foundation. In front, a sign explains what happened after the battle.

A sign in front of the Benning House talks about the forming of Union troops in Northeast Missouri.

Benning House

We happened to be up at the Battle of Athens State Historic Site when they were conducting tours so the historic homes were open to the public. I would call first to see if they are doing tours before you drive to the site if you want to see the inside of them.

Bedrooms are set up to that period including chamber pots, beds, a chest of drawers, and cabinets along with stoves.

My son pointed out the large piano and a nearby violin.

Fascinating were the intricate details of the patchwork quilt with ducks and even an 1800s girl with schoolbooks.

We then saw the large apple peeler at the end of a cabinet in the kitchen.

The most intriguing aspect of the house is the hole a cannonball left through the kitchen door, through the kitchen, and out the other wall. Although the cannonball harmed no one.

The cannonball fired from the artillery of the pro-Confederate Missouri State Guard hit the house during the Aug. 5, 1861 battle.

Smith Hotel

Next, we walked up the road to the Smith Hotel.

Here we found a weaver machine from the 1800s.

A corkboard had photos from the 1800s giving you a sense of the people and houses that were in the town back then.

Andrew checked out the rifles and guns on display.

Outside Walk

Next, we walked out to the back where a large cannon is set up on the former battleground. Andrew stood in the back like he was about to fire it.

Then we walked over by the brick Moreland House and Wm. S. French House, abandoned homes in the town.

Mill Trail

Next, we went down to the sign for the Mill Trail, which says it is a .3-mile one-way walk. Although, you can do it as a loop since the trail curves back up the hill a short way after passing the mill. This is also shown on the printout of the Mill Trail from the historic site’s website. The total walk is a .4-mile natural surface loop.

Heading down the wide mowed path we pass a ravine that goes into trees.

I spy a white mushroom growing on part of a log.

Mill Remains

Below the hill, the trail goes to the left and we saw the brown rock mill remains. These remnants were from a mill constructed by Edward Colton. Built to withstand ice and flooding and stood on a 30-foot stone foundation with an additional four stores and had a water wheel. It was a grist and textile mill until the 1890s.

After checking out the mill we walked a short way along the river before coming to a trail that headed back up the hillside. You could continue along the river, but this is an unlisted trail.

At the top, you can take the White Connector trail to the 2.8-mile natural surface Snow Trillium Trail that goes along the river hills.

Boardwalk

We headed back up into the former town to check out the Athens Mill Overlook boardwalk.

This is a good way to see the mill site without having to go down and up the river hill.

Along the boardwalk, you can also see remains of brown rock structures in the woods.

*When you come into town you can see an old white church with a Christian flag waving in the wind. On a cloudy day gives a forlorn message of times past.*

Final Thoughts

If you like history and ghost towns then this is a worthy trip to make if you are in northeast Missouri. A lot of history in a small area.

DETAILS

Other Amenities

A fishing lake, picnic areas, and a playground.

Tours

Call 660-877-3871 for more information or to schedule a tour.

Drive: A little over three hour’s drive from the St. Louis Metro. Take Interstate 64 or Interstate 70 to U.S. 61 and go north. North of Wayland, Mo., make a left onto Missouri Highway C then a right onto Missouri Highway 81, and then a right onto Missouri Highway CC that leads to the historic site.

Hours: 7 a.m. – sunset, daily, year-round

Address: State Hwy CC, Revere, MO 63465